@article {1850, title = {Anti-Wrinkle Activity of Clausena harmandiana Essential Oil and Development of a Bioactive Nano-Drug Delivery System for Cosmetic Applications}, journal = {Pharmacognosy Journal}, volume = {14}, year = {2022}, month = {August 2022}, pages = {416-422}, type = {Research Article }, chapter = {416}, abstract = {

Background: Clausena harmandiana (Song Fa) leaves are a source of essential oil, in which the dominant compound is trans-anethole and reported the high antioxidant activity but the inhibition of biological enzymes related to anti-wrinkle activity is limit. Objectives: The objectives of this study are to investigate the ability of Song Fa leaf essential oil (SFEO) to inhibit enzymes that cause skin wrinkles and then to develop a bioactive ingredient in a nano-drug delivery system for anti-ageing cosmetic products. Methods: Fresh leaves of Song Fa were distilled and their essential oil obtained. Then, the anti-collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase activities were investigated and compared with those of an oleanolic acid standard. Then, SFEO was developed into a microemulsion by using Tween 80 as a surfactant and ethanol as a co-surfactant in a ratio of 1:1. Results: SFEO presented the highest inhibitory activities against hyaluronidase and collagenase (IC50 10.94{\textpm}1.06 and 19.06{\textpm}0.06 μg/ml, respectively), which were close to those of oleanolic acid (IC50 7.43{\textpm}0.58 and 16.75{\textpm}0.14 μg/ml), followed by elastase (IC50 121.47{\textpm}2.80 μg/ml). Two microemulsion formulas with different amounts of essential oil, 1\% and 5\% w/w, were formulated and evaluated for their enzyme inhibitory activities. The results showed that 5\% Song Fa microemulsion inhibited collagenase and elastase (35.78\% and 99.35\%, respectively) by more than 1\% Song Fa microemulsion (34.22\% and 92.67\%, respectively) and only the 5\% Song Fa microemulsion formula exhibited anti-hyaluronidase activity. Conclusion: This information will benefit the development of essential-oil-based products and increase the utilization of medicinal plants in the cosmetic industry.

}, keywords = {Anti -hyaluronidase, Anti-collagenase, Anti-Elastase, Anti-wrinkle, Clausena harmandiana, Microemulsions}, doi = {10.5530/pj.2022.14.116}, author = {Napapat Rattanachitthawat and Sirichet Rattanachitthawat and Nichakan Peerakam} }