@article {1850, title = {Anti-Wrinkle Activity of Clausena harmandiana Essential Oil and Development of a Bioactive Nano-Drug Delivery System for Cosmetic Applications}, journal = {Pharmacognosy Journal}, volume = {14}, year = {2022}, month = {August 2022}, pages = {416-422}, type = {Research Article }, chapter = {416}, abstract = {

Background: Clausena harmandiana (Song Fa) leaves are a source of essential oil, in which the dominant compound is trans-anethole and reported the high antioxidant activity but the inhibition of biological enzymes related to anti-wrinkle activity is limit. Objectives: The objectives of this study are to investigate the ability of Song Fa leaf essential oil (SFEO) to inhibit enzymes that cause skin wrinkles and then to develop a bioactive ingredient in a nano-drug delivery system for anti-ageing cosmetic products. Methods: Fresh leaves of Song Fa were distilled and their essential oil obtained. Then, the anti-collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase activities were investigated and compared with those of an oleanolic acid standard. Then, SFEO was developed into a microemulsion by using Tween 80 as a surfactant and ethanol as a co-surfactant in a ratio of 1:1. Results: SFEO presented the highest inhibitory activities against hyaluronidase and collagenase (IC50 10.94{\textpm}1.06 and 19.06{\textpm}0.06 μg/ml, respectively), which were close to those of oleanolic acid (IC50 7.43{\textpm}0.58 and 16.75{\textpm}0.14 μg/ml), followed by elastase (IC50 121.47{\textpm}2.80 μg/ml). Two microemulsion formulas with different amounts of essential oil, 1\% and 5\% w/w, were formulated and evaluated for their enzyme inhibitory activities. The results showed that 5\% Song Fa microemulsion inhibited collagenase and elastase (35.78\% and 99.35\%, respectively) by more than 1\% Song Fa microemulsion (34.22\% and 92.67\%, respectively) and only the 5\% Song Fa microemulsion formula exhibited anti-hyaluronidase activity. Conclusion: This information will benefit the development of essential-oil-based products and increase the utilization of medicinal plants in the cosmetic industry.

}, keywords = {Anti -hyaluronidase, Anti-collagenase, Anti-Elastase, Anti-wrinkle, Clausena harmandiana, Microemulsions}, doi = {10.5530/pj.2022.14.116}, author = {Napapat Rattanachitthawat and Sirichet Rattanachitthawat and Nichakan Peerakam} } @article {678, title = {Antioxidant and Anti-Collagenase Activity of Sargassum Plagyophyllum Extract as an Anti-Wrinkle Cosmetic Ingredient}, journal = {Pharmacognosy Journal}, volume = {10}, year = {2018}, month = {August 2018}, pages = {932-936}, type = {Original Article}, chapter = {932}, abstract = {

Background: Sea algae are widely used as food and cosmetics in the world. There are several algae including brown algae which are us for human used to maintain health and skin care. Brown algae have various potential biological activities because contain substantial phytochemical constituent. Numerous report has identified phytochemical compound of Sargassum sp. extract but the activity as anti-collagenase almost none. Objective: To study the antioxidant, and anti-collagenase activity of Sargassum plagyophyllum extract as active pharmaceutical ingredient for anti-wrinkle cosmetics. Methods: Sargassum plagyophyllum obtained from Pasauran Beach, Banten, West Java, Indonesia. The extract Sargassum plagyophyllum extracted with three concentration ethanol-water: (E1) ethanol 25\%, (E2) ethanol 50\% and (E3) ethanol 75\%, by using maceration extraction method for 24 h, thrice. The extract was evaluated include total phenolic content, antioxidant activity, and the best extract was tested for the anti-collagenase activity. Results: Total phenol in the extract were 0.588 \± 0.01 (E1), 0.272 \± 0.01 (E2), and 0.220\± 0.03 (E3) mg PGE/ 100 g extract, respectively. Antioxidant activity of the extract (50 mg/mL) was 41,61\±0,02\% (E1), 39,16\±0,01\% (E2), 37,58\±0,03\% (E3) and ascorbic acid 78.03\±0,65 \% (22.44 \μg/mL) as a standard. The best extract (E1) had inhibited the activity of collagenase by 54.46 \± 0.37\%. Conclusion: The brown seaweed (Sargassum plagyophyllum) extract can be used as an active pharmaceutical ingredient for anti-wrinkles cosmetic

}, keywords = {Anti-collagenase, Anti-wrinkle, Antioxidant, Sargassum plagyophyllum}, doi = {10.5530/pj.2018.5.157}, author = {Mansauda Karlah Lifie Riani and Effionora Anwar and Tati Nurhayati} }